Climbing Aconcagua via The Normal Route with Porters - 19 Days

Expedition : Aconcagua via The Normal Route with Porters: 19 Days

All of our scheduled groups have no more than 5 clients and 2 guides. Our guide to client ratio is 1:3. As guides, we feel that clients have the best possible chance for the summit when the groups are small and individual needs are met. Small groups create a more enjoyable environment, have less of an ecological impact on the mountain, and allows each client the special attention that is required to reach the summit.

Short Description
This expedition is designed for climbers who would like a few more days to give their best shot at the summit. This is the perfect climb for those coming from sea level because you will have more time to acclimate and adjust to the high altitude conditions. The Normal route is a non-technical route and  is perfect for an avid hiker in excellent physical shape who would like to experience a high altitude adventure. Having said this, the high altitude, dryness, and extreme weather conditions make it a very challenging mountain.

Feel free to check out pictures from our previous expeditions

Detailed Itinerary

Season: December - March
Duration: 19 Days. For our 17 day program please go to this link.

Dates Offered: We offer both fixed dates and customized dates. Click here to see our fixed expedition dates.

Day 1
First and foremost, if your schedule will allow it, we highly recommend flying in two or three days before the expedition begins so you can rest before climbing and get a chance to check out the beautiful city of Mendoza. Climbers who are rested before the climb tend to have the best chance for the summit.

The extra days are especially helpful for those who plan on renting equipment.

Upon arriving in Mendoza, your guide will personally escort you from the Mendoza International Airport to a hotel in central Mendoza. It is imperative that climbers reserve a ticket with an early morning arrival in Mendoza because we have activities planned later in the day. After arriving at the hotel, climbers will get a chance to rest; or if they need to burn off some unused energy from a 8-16 hour plane ride (depending on stops and layovers), we highly recommend a stroll in the city of Mendoza.

In the afternoon, we will meet in the lobby of the hotel. At this time, the climbing team will meet up with the Senior Guides who along with Assistant Guides will go over paperwork, logistics of the climb, safety, and will answer any questions you may have about climbing Aconcagua. After a 45-minute introduction, we will evaluate all personal equipment. If there are any problems with individual equipment, or if more personal equipment needs to be rented, we will make a visit to a rental store in Mendoza. Our guides will assist you in renting the most appropriate gear for the climb. Most outdoor equipment stores in Mendoza are open until 8pm (Mon-Sat). If you plan on renting most of your equipment, please go to the following EQUIPMENT LINK and be sure to read about the precautions that should be taken when renting equipment. After all equipment has been inspected and rented, the rest of the night is free for catching up on sleep, finishing packing, or checking out the Mendoza nightlife.

Day 2
We will meet in the lobby of the hotel at 10:00 am in the morning, and head out to the Aconcagua Permit Office. Unfortunately, it is impossible to receive a permit ahead of time. All permits are issued in Mendoza and it is not possible to apply for a permit via the mail. In the upcoming years it may be possible to obtain a permit over the Internet.

For up-to-date permit information and fees please go to the following website: http://www.aconcagua.mendoza.gov.ar

After receiving our permits, we will head out to the beautiful town Uspallata. The drive is approximately 3.5 hours and the views are incredible. We will be passing through the heart of the Argentinean Andes and we will stop along the way for lunch. Once at Uspallata we will prepare the loads to be transported by the mules (the limit is 30 kgs/65 lbs) per person. Once, we are finished with the loads we will have a traditional Argentine “Asado” (barbecue) with locals. We will spend the night in Uspallata.

Day 3
Today, we begin our ascent up Aconcagua. We will leave Uspallata at 8:30 am and drive to the Aconcagua Park Headquarters. After registering at the Park Headquarters, we will continue up the Horcones River until we reach the camp, "Confluencia" (3320m/10,892 ft).We will meet up with the mules to retrieve our gear at Confluencia. The time duration for the hike is 3-4 hours.

Day 4
Today will be an optional day for either hiking or resting. For those who are interested in hiking, we will day hike up to Plaza Francia (4100 m/13,776 ft), the base camp for the South Face of Aconcagua. This is a great hike for acclimating and contains breath-taking views. The south face of Aconcagua is famous for its extreme technicalities. The legendary climber, Reinhold Messner, described the south face of Aconcagua as, "one of the greatest and most challenging walls for climbing on our planet". We will have lunch at Plaza Francia and then return to Camp Confluencia for dinner and sleep. The duration of the hike is 5-7 hours.

Day 5
After breakfast, we will place our gear on mules and day hike to Camp Ibanez (3960 m/12,992 ft) for lunch and then continue on to Plaza De Mulas, the base camp for the Aconcagua Normal Route. We will spend all day hiking through the beautiful Horcones Valley. During the trek, our guides will point out the amazing high altitude botany, geology, and talk about the history of Aconcagua. Our lunch spot, the Ibáñez Refugio, is a precarious construction of rocks that was used by the first winter expedition on Aconcagua. We will spend the night at Plaza De Mulas (4270 m/14,009 ft). The time duration for the hike is 8-10 hours.

Day 6
Reserved for bad weather or rest.

Day 7
Today, we ascend the mountain! We will climb to Camp One, "Camp Canada" (4970m/16,072 ft). If the weather is decent, we will enjoy incredible views of Cerro Cuerno (4427 m/ 14,520 ft) and Cerro Bonete (5100 m/16,728 ft). We will only be dropping off gear at Camp Canada and having lunch. After dropping off the gear, we will descend to Plaza De Mulas for dinner and sleep. The duration of this climb is 3-5 hours.

Day 8
Reserved for bad weather or rest.

Day 9
After breakfast, we will climb up to Camp Canada (4970m/16,072 ft). We will have lunch, dinner and sleep at Camp Canada. The duration of this climb is 3-5 hours.

Day 10
After breakfast, we will ascend up to Camp Two, Nido De Condores, "The Nest of The Condors" (5350 m/17,552 ft). We will only be dropping off gear at Camp Two and having lunch at Camp Two. We will descend back to Camp One for dinner and sleep. The duration of the climb is 4-6 hrs.

Day 11
Reserved for weather and rest.

Day 12
After breakfast, we will bring the rest of our gear to Camp Two (5350 m/17,552 ft). We will have lunch, dinner, and sleep at Camp Two. The duration of the climb is 4-6 hrs.

Day 13
Reserved for weather and rest.

Day 14
After breakfast, we head off to High Camp (5780 m/18,963 ft). Because the air is becoming gradually thinner, we will climb very slowly. We will practice what is known as "pressure breathing," a well-known mountaineering technique that brings oxygen into the body. It is very important that we stay well hydrated. We recommend drinking 4-5 liters of water per day. High Camp offers incredible views of the neighboring mountains, Mercedario (6770 m /20,310 ft) and Ramada, (6200 m/20,336 ft). We will sleep at High Camp. The duration of the climb is 2-3 hours.

Day 15
Reserved for weather and rest.

Day 16
Summit Day has arrived! At approximately 5:00 in the morning, we will begin our attempt for the summit of Aconcagua. We will climb at a steady pace that is suitable for everyone in the group. On our way to the summit we will pass the following sights: "White Rocks Camp site," "Refugio Independence," and the "Portezuelo of the Wind."Right before the summit we will begin the famous, "Canaleta." The Canaleta is challenging due to its high altitude and its relatively high angle (20-25 degrees). Depending on snow depth, the Canaleta can be a challenging scree slope. The Canaleta takes approximately 3 hours to climb. After the Canaleta, we will view the beautiful "Edge of the Guanacos." This will take us directly to the Summit. Our goal is to be at the summit between 12 and 2pm. If weather permits, we will stay on the summit for 1/2 hour. This should allow us enough time for photos and summit log. After the summit, we will descend back to High Camp. There is a possibility that we will arrive at High Camp in the early evening (between 6-7pm). Be prepared for a long but inspiring summit climb. The duration of the climb is 9-12 hours. We will sleep at High Camp.

Day 17
After a late breakfast we will pack up everything and head down to base camp, Plaza De Mulas. We will have a "well deserved"dinner at Plaza De Mulas. We will sleep at Plaza De Mulas. The decent is 2-4 hours.

Day 18
After breakfast, we will descend the Horcones Valley. All gear will be carried down by mules (the limit is 30 kg/ 65 lbs per person). After returning our permits, a van will be waiting for us and we will be taken to Uspallata for sleep and dinner. Duration of hike is 8-10 hours.

Day 19
Drive to Mendoza (3 hrs). Sleep at a Hotel in Mendoza and/or transport to airport in Mendoza. Dinner celebration at Don Marios restaurant in Mendoza. If flying out the same day, please reserve an evening flight for your departure to allow adequate time at the airport. We recommend flying out of Mendoza the following day.

*Extra Summit Day Option: We can drive directly to Mendoza from the Horcones valley and not spend the last night in Uspallata.

Services Included:
• We specialize in small groups. The maximum number of clients is five plus two guides. Our guide to client ratio is 1:3
• Assistance with obtaining permits to enter the Provincial Aconcagua Park and gear rentals.
• Mountain Guides (bilingual, experienced, and qualified to operate within Provincial Park Aconcagua).
• All guides have complete first aid kits (oximeter) and wilderness aid training.
• Transport to and from airport and hotel in Mendoza.
• Transport to and from Mendoza and Uspallata and Aconcagua Provincial Park.
• Two nights accommodation at a four-star hotel in Mendoza City. Double occupancy for scheduled groups. For scheduled groups single occupancy can be offered at an additional price. Breakfast is included but all other meals and drinks not included.
• Two nights accommodation in Uspallata (double or triple occupancy). Single occupancy can be offered at an additional price. Breakfast is included but all other meals and drinks are not included.
• Tents and group gear (stoves, ropes, etc.).
• Cook. All food is provided while we are on the mountain which will be prepared for you by a cook.
• Vegetarian menu, if desired
• Argentine “Asado” (barbeque) in Uspallata with locals.
• Geologist for the hike into base camp. They will discuss the geological history of Aconcagua and different types of rocks. For groups of five people only.
• Mules to carry the equipment (30 kg/65 lbs pp) in-out Plaza De Mulas Base Camp and Confluencia.
• Radio for communications between high camps, base camp, Penitentes and Mendoza.
• Exclusive services at base camp; cooks, dining tents, bathrooms, and all meals (6 day maximum)
• Permanent access to hot drinks, tea, coffee, biscuits at base camp.
• Porter for group gear (20 kilos each carry.)

Not Included:
• Aconcagua Park Climbing Permit Fee. Please go to the following website for up-to-date Permit Fees: http://www.aconcagua.mendoza.gov.ar
• Plane ticket
• Personal equipment (clothing, boots, sleeping bag, headlamps, etc.) Please go to the following (equipment link) for more information on what you will need.
• Rescue Cost
• For scheduled groups, costs associated with early descent for non-emergencies: helicopter and/or an additional assistant guide for personal descent, saddle horses to come down from base camp, and transportation to Mendoza.
• Personal expenses (tips, laundry, phone, etc.).
• Extra nights at hotel outside of expedition dates.
• Hotel in the case of an early return to Mendoza. We will pay for the first night only.
• If you would like, we can arrange for personal porters to carry your personal gear at an additional cost.

Level of Climbing Required:
Even though the Normal Route is non-technical it is a difficult route due to its high altitude, winds, extreme temperatures, storms, and dryness. The level of climbing required is that of a person in excellent physical condition and who is an avid hiker. After registering for a trip, we will send you a four month training program that will place you in the best possible condition for the summit. It's also a big plus to be accustomed to sleeping in a tent under harsh conditions. There is a famous saying in mountaineering, “If you can sleep you can climb.” Aconcagua definitely holds this to be true. The best way to adapt to sleeping in a tent and in a sleeping bag is by sleeping outside as much as possible in all kinds of weather. Eventually, through test and trial you will learn which sleeping systems work best for you.

Aside from weather, altitude is the biggest factor when climbing Aconcagua. The best way to prepare
for altitude is by climbing other mountains.

Aside from being in excellent shape and some camping skills under your belt, equally essential are characteristics including: patience, a sense of humor, mental endurance and a team-spirited attitude.

Weather on Aconcagua's Normal Route
Aconcagua is most famous for its “Viento Blanco”(white winds). On an average day the wind speeds can range between 15 mph and 35 mph. On a, “feels like a helicopter is permanently landing next to my tent day”, the winds range from 45 mph to 60 mph. Most of the Normal Route is west facing (a majority of the storms come from the Pacific) which means that exposed camps like Nido De Condores, Camp Canada, and Berlin, can get substantial winds relative to the other sides of the mountains. Thus, the best four season/expedition gear and clothing is required (equipment link).

As far as temperature is concerned, it can get very cold on Aconcagua and we recommend that you bring (or rent) a very warm sleeping bag. We recommend a bag rated 0 to -10 F. If you tend to sleep cold, bring at least a -10 F down sleeping bag (800 fill). On average the temperatures range from 10 F to -10 F. A 700 to 800 fill down coat is also a necessity.

We will receive a 3 and 5 day weather report every other day from base camp via VHF radio. In general, storms typically last three to four days and then are usually accompanied by three or four days of sun.

Cost of the Expedition
Scheduled Trips (see current schedule): All Groups have a maximum of five climbers and two guides.
$2900.00 per person

We also offer private expeditions with customizable dates. Contact us to receive an estimate for your personalized expedition.

We can customize your expedition to include less services at lower prices. Please email us and state which service you would like to include and exclude and we will email you a price.

Fill Out a Trip Reservation Form

Contact Information
South American Climbing
P.O. MXY #1
GlennAllen, Alaska 99588
Tel: 866.896.1435

E-Mail
info@southamericanclimbing.com