Climbng Aconcagua via the Guanacos Valley and Traverse with Descent via the Normal Route with Porters

PLEASE NOTE: This route is currently closed so that mother nature can take a little break from human impact.

For up to date information on the Guanacos route closure, please go to the following website:
http://www.aconcagua.mendoza.gov.ar

 

Expedition: Aconcagua via the Guanacos Valley and Traverse with Descent via the Normal Route with Porters

All of our scheduled groups have no more than 5 clients and 2 guides. Our guide to client ratio is 1:3. As guides, we feel that clients have the best possible chance for the summit when the groups are small and individual needs are met. Small groups create a more enjoyable environment, have less of an ecological impact on the mountain, and allows each client the special attention that is required to reach the summit.

Short Description
The Guanacos Valley is a new route on Cerro Aconcagua (6962 m/ 22,835 ft). This route is often less traveled and offers incredible wildlife viewings. The rate of elevation gain is very gradual compared to other non-technical routes on Aconcagua. On average, each camp is approximately 650m in elevation gain. This expedition is perfect for someone who may need extra time at altitude to acclimate and who wants to take 'the path less traveled'. We will descend the Normal Route which will allow you to see two sides and perspectives of the mountain.

Feel free to check out pictures from our previous expeditions. (Visit Our Online Gallery)

Detailed Itinerary
Season:
December – March
Duration: 21 days
Dates Offered: We offer both fixed dates and customized dates. For fixed dates, please click on the following link (Fixed Dates).

Day 1
First and foremost, if your schedule will allow it, we highly recommend flying in two or three days before the expedition begins so you can rest before climbing and get a chance to check out the beautiful city of Mendoza. Climbers who are rested before the climb tend to have the best chance for the summit. The extra days are especially helpful for those who plan on renting equipment.

Upon arriving in Mendoza, a representative from our company will personally escort you from the Mendoza International Airport to a hotel in central Mendoza. It is imperative that climbers reserve a ticket with an early morning arrival in Mendoza because we have activities planned later in the day. After arriving at the hotel, climbers will get a chance to rest; or if they need to burn off some unused energy from a 8-16 hour plane ride (depending on stops and layovers), we highly recommend a stroll in the city of Mendoza.

In the afternoon, we will meet in the lobby of the hotel. At this time, the climbing team will meet up with the Senior Guides who along with Assistant Guides will go over paperwork, logistics of the climb, safety, and will answer any questions you may have about climbing Aconcagua. After a 45-minute introduction, we will evaluate all personal equipment. If there are any problems with individual equipment, or if more personal equipment needs to be rented, we will make a visit to a rental store in Mendoza. Most outdoor equipment stores in Mendoza are open until 8pm (Mon-Sat). If you plan on renting most of your equipment, please go to the following EQUIPMENT PAGE and be sure to read about the precautions that should be taken when renting equipment. After all equipment has been inspected and rented, the rest of the night is free for catching up on sleep, finishing packing, or checking out the Mendoza nightlife.

Day 2
We will meet in the lobby of the hotel at 10:00 am in the morning, and head out to the Aconcagua Permit Office. Unfortunately, it is impossible to receive a permit ahead of time. All permits are issued in Mendoza and it is not possible to apply for a permit via the mail. In the upcoming years it may be possible to obtain a permit over the Internet. For up-to-date permit information and fees please go to the following website: http://www.aconcagua.mendoza.gov.ar

After receiving our permits, we will head out to the Penitentes. The drive is approximately 3 hours and the views are incredible. We will be passing through the heart of the Argentinean Andes and we will stop along the way for lunch. Once in Penitentes we will prepare the loads to be transported by the mules (the limit is 30 kgs/65 lbs) per person. We will have dinner and sleep in Penitentes.

Day 3
Today we will start out at Punta De Vacas (2,325 m 7,628 ft.) and hike to Pampa De Lenas (2700m/8,858 ft). We will hike approximately 12 km (7 miles) to Pampa de Lenas where will have an Argentine “Asado” (barbeque) for dinner. We will sleep at Pampa Del Lenas.

Day 4
After a hearty breakfast, we break camp and head north up the Rio de las Vacas to Casa de Piedra (3,200 m/10,500 ft.). The duration of the hike is five to six hours (13.7 km/ 8.2 mi). Depending on the weather, it may be possible to view Aconcagua from Casa de Piedra. We will sleep at Casa De Piedra.

Day 5
Today we will hike to the Guanacos Base Camp (3600 m/11,808 ft), named for the abundance of the wild llamas found here. A guanaco is cousin to the llama.

Day 6
Reserved for bad weather or rest.

Day 7
We will begin our ascent carrying a load of personal and group equipment to Camp One (4200 m/13,776 ft). We will drop off our loads and descend to Base Camp for the night. The time duration for the hike is 3-4 hours.

Day 8
After breakfast, we will carry the remaining loads to Camp One. We will sleep at Camp One.

Day 9
Reserved for rest or bad weather

Day 10
Gear drop off to Camp Two (4900 m/16, 072 ft) and then descend back to Camp One for dinner and sleep. Duration of climb is 4-6 hours.

Day 11
Today we will bring the rest of the gear to Camp Two and we will spend the night at Camp Two.

Day 12
Reserved for bad weather or rest.

Day 13
Gear drop off to Camp Three and then descend back down to Camp Two for dinner and rest.

Day 14
Today we will bring the rest of the gear to Camp Three. We will sleep at Camp Three.

Day 15
First carry to High Camp (6000m/ 19680 ft).

Day 16
Today we will bring the rest of our gear to High Camp (6000m/ 19680 ft).

Day 17
The Summit day has arrived!! One summit day, we will awake at 4:30 in the morning and attempt the summit of Aconcagua. We will sleep at high camp.

Day 18
Reserved for bad weather or rest.

Day 19
Descend to Plaza De Mulas (4270 m/14,009 ft).

Day 20
After breakfast, we will descend the Horcones Valley. All gear will be carried down by mules (the limit is 30 kg/ 65 lbs per person). After returning our permits, a van will be waiting for us and we will be taken to Usapallata for sleep and dinner. Duration of hike is 8-10 hours.

Day 21
Drive to Mendoza (3 hrs.). Transport to a hotel in Mendoza and/or transport to airport in Mendoza. Dinner celebration at the restaurant Don Marios in Mendoza. If flying out the same day, please reserve an evening flight for your departure to allow adequate time at the airport. We recommend flying out of Mendoza the following day.

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Services Included in the Cerro Aconcagua via the Guanacos Valley and Traverse Route:
• We specialize in small groups. The maximum number of clients is five plus two guides. Our guide to client ratio is 1:3
• Assistance with obtaining permits to enter the Provincial Aconcagua Park.
• Mountain Guides (bilingual, experienced, and qualified to operate within Provincial Park Aconcagua).
• All guides have complete first aid kits (including oximeter) and wilderness aid training.
• Transport to and from airport and hotel in Mendoza.
• Transport to and from Mendoza and Penitentes and Aconcagua Provincial Park.
• Two nights accommodation at a four-star hotel in Mendoza City. Double occupancy for scheduled groups. For scheduled groups single occupancy can be offered at an additional price. Breakfast is included but all other meals and drinks not included.
• Two nights accommodation in Penitentes (double or triple occupancy). Single occupancy can be offered at an additional price. Breakfast is included but all other meals and drinks are not included.
• Tents and group gear (stoves, ropes, etc.).
• Cook. All food is provided while we are on the mountain which will be prepared for you by a cook.
• Vegetarian menu, if desired
• Argentine “Asado” (barbeque) at Pampa De Lenas.
• Geologist for the hike into base camp. They will discuss the geological history of Aconcagua and different types of rocks. For groups of five people only.
• Mules to carry the equipment (30 kg/65 lbs pp) in-out Plaza Guanacos/Plaza De Mulas Base Camp.
• Radio and SAT phone for communications between high camps, base camp, Penitentes and Mendoza.
• One porter for group gear (20 kilos each carry).

Not Included:
• Aconcagua Park climbing Permit Fee. Please go to the following website for up-to-date Permit Fees: http://www.aconcagua.mendoza.gov.ar
• Plane ticket
• Personal equipment (clothing, boots, sleeping bag headlamps, etc.) Please go to the following (equipment link) for more information.
• Rescue Cost
• Costs associated with early descent for non-emergencies:helicopter and/or an additional assistant guide for personal descent, saddle horses to come down from base camp, and transportation to Mendoza.
• Personal expenses (tips, laundry, phone, etc.).
• Extra nights at hotel outside of expedition dates.
• Hotel in the case of an early return to Mendoza. We will pay for the first night only.
• If you would like, we can arrange for personal porters to carry your personal gear at an additional cost.

Level of Climbing Required
The Guanacos Valley Route is non-technical. Anyone in excellent physical condition has a good chance of making it to the summit. Once you have registered for an expedition, we will send you a four month training program that will put you in the best condition to get to the summit. The elevation gain is more gradual than the Normal Route or the Polish Traverse and therefore most people acclimate more easily.

The trails are less used and maintained on the Guanacos Route compared to the Normal Route and the terrain is more challenging thus requiring sure footing and good balance.

Although previous altitude experience is not required, it is helpful. Climbers who are accustomed to sleeping outside tend to be more rested for the summit day. There is a famous saying in mountaineering: “If you can sleep you can climb.” Aconcagua definitely holds this to be true. The best way to adapt to sleeping in a tent and in a sleeping bag is by sleeping outside as much as possible in all kinds of weather. Eventually, through test and trial you will learn which sleeping systems work best for you.

Weather on Aconcagua's Guanacos Route
Aconcagua is most famous for its “Viento Blanco”(white winds). On an average day the wind speeds can range between 15 mph and 35 mph. On a, “feels like a helicopter is permanently landing next to my tent day”, the winds range from 45 mph to 60 mph. The best four season/expedition gear and clothing is required (equipment link).

As far as temperature is concerned, it can get very cold on Aconcagua and we recommend that you bring (or rent) a very warm sleeping bag. We recommend a bag rated 0 to -10 F. If you tend to sleep cold, bring at least a -10 F down sleeping bag (800 fill). On average the temperatures range from 10 F to -10 F. A 700 to 800 fill down coat is also a necessity.

Aconcagua is known to be a very dry and dusty mountain. Our guides will monitor each clients daily water intake. We recommend at least 4-5 liters or more (especially if you are taking diamox). When the weather is good, it can be quite sunny and the best glacier glasses and sun sceen are a necessity.

We will receive a 3 and 5 day weather report every other day from base camp via Sat phone. In general, storms typically last three to four days and then are usually accompanied by three or four days of sun.

Cost of the Expedition

Scheduled Trips (See Our Schedule): All Groups have a maximum of five climbers and two guides.
$3725 per person

We also offer private expeditions with customizable dates. Contact us to receive an estimate for your personalized expedition.

We can customize your expedition to include less services at lower prices. Please email us and state which services you would like to include and exclude and we will email you a price.

Fill Out a Trip Reservation Form

Contact Information
South American Climbing
P.O. MXY #1
GlennAllen, Alaska 99588
Tel: 866.896.1435

E-Mail info@southamericanclimbing.com