Expedition: Cerro Aconcagua via the Polish Glacier (Technical Route) with Descent via the Normal Route with Porters
All of our scheduled groups have no more than 5 clients and 3 guides. Our guide to client ratio for Polish Glacier Technical Route is 1:2. As guides, we feel that clients have the best possible chance for the summit when the groups are small and individual needs are met. Small groups create a more enjoyable environment, have less of an ecological impact on the mountain, and allows each client the special attention that is required to reach the summit.
Short Description
All the routes on the Polish Glacier are technical routes except the Polish Glacier Traverse (aka Falso De Polacos). Excellent physical condition and previous rope travel and technical climbing experience is required for the technical climbs. Please read below, the Level of Climbing Experience that is required for the Polish Glacier Technical Routes. We will descend the Normal Route which will allow you to see two different sides and perspectives of the mountain. If the conditions on the Polish Glacier are considered unsafe due to objective hazards or snow/ice conditions, we will attempt a summit via the Polish Glacier Traverse (aka Falso De Polacos).
All routes on the Polish Glacier are less traveled than the Normal Route of Aconcagua and contain spectacular beauty. Feel free to check out pictures from our previous expeditions.
Detailed Itinerary
Season: December – March
Duration: 20 Days
Dates Offered: We offer both fixed dates and customized dates. Click here to view fixed expedition schedule...
Day 1
First and foremost, if your schedule will allow it, we highly recommend flying in two or three days before the expedition begins so you can rest before climbing and get a chance to check out the beautiful city of Mendoza. Climbers who are rested before the climb tend to have the best chance for the summit. Because this is a technical route, we highly recommend NOT renting equipment in Mendoza. By the nature of the route, it is expected that all clients are familiar with their equipment and comfortable in their plastic boots. Some odd and ends can be purchased in Mendoza but important technical gear and clothing should be purchased and tested ahead of time in your local area. By purchasing and testing your gear ahead of time, you will be more prepared for the glacier and you will gain sufficient knowledge of what works for you.
Upon arriving in Mendoza, your guide will personally escort you from the Mendoza International Airport to a hotel in central Mendoza. It is imperative that climbers reserve a ticket with an early morning arrival in Mendoza because we have activities planned later in the day. After arriving at the hotel, climbers will get a chance to rest; or if they need to burn off some unused energy from a 8-16 hour plane ride (depending on stops and layovers), we highly recommend a stroll in the city of Mendoza.
In the afternoon, we will meet in the lobby of the hotel. At this time, the climbing team will meet up with the Senior Guides who along with Assistant Guides will go over paperwork, logistics of the climb, safety, and will answer any questions you may have about climbing Aconcagua. After a 45-minute introduction, we will evaluate all personal equipment. If there are any problems with individual equipment, or if a trip to the equipment store is necessary, your guide will take you to the equipment store and assistant in getting you the necessary items. As stated previously, we highly recommend NOT renting equipment in Mendoza for a technical climb.
Most outdoor equipment stores in Mendoza are open until 8pm (Mon-Sat). Please go to the following EQUIPMENT LINK and be sure to read about the precautions about renting equipment in Mendoza. After all equipment has been inspected, the rest of the night is free for catching up on sleep, finishing packing, or checking out the Mendoza nightlife.
Day 2
We will meet in the lobby of the hotel at 10:00 am in the morning, and head out to the Aconcagua Permit Office. Unfortunately, it is impossible to receive a permit ahead of time. All permits are issued in Mendoza and it is not possible to apply for a permit via the mail. In the upcoming years it may be possible to obtain a permit over the Internet. For up-to-date permit information and fees please go to the following website:
http://www.aconcagua.mendoza.gov.ar
After receiving our permits, we will head out to the Penitentes. The drive is approximately 3 hours and the views are incredible. We will be passing through the heart of the Argentinean Andes and we will stop along the way for lunch. Once in Penitentes we will prepare the loads to be transported by the mules (the limit is 30 kgs/65 lbs) per person. We will have dinner and sleep in Penitentes.
Day 3
We will leave Penitentes at 8:30am and drive to the Vacas Valley trail head. We will hike approximately 12 km (7 miles) to Pampa de Lenas (2700m/8,858 ft) where will have an Argentine “Asado” (barbeque) for dinner. We will sleep at Pampa Del Lenas.
Day 4
After a hearty breakfast, we break camp and head north up the Rio de las Vacas to Casa de Piedra (3,200 m/10,500 ft.). The duration of the hike is five to six hours (13.7 km/ 8.2 mi). Depending on the weather, it may be possible to view Aconcagua from Casa de Piedra. We will sleep at Casa De Piedra.
Day 5
Today expedition members will reach base camp: Plaza Argentina (4,200 m/ 13,780 ft), situated at the base of the Relinchos Glacier. After six hours of strenuous hiking (10 km/6m), we reach the Relinchos Glacier and Plaza Argentina. We will sleep at Plaza Argentina.
Day 6
Reserved for rest, acclimatization and bad weather. This will be a good day for small hikes and getting to know the multi-national climbing scene on Aconcagua. We will sleep at Plaza Argentina.
Day 7
Today we will drop off gear and supplies at Camp I (4,700 m/ 15,400 ft.). We will return to Plaza Argentina for dinner and sleep. The duration of the hike is 4-5 hours.
Day 8
Today is reserved for bad weather or rest.
Day 9
Today expedition members will climb to Camp I (4,700 m/ 15,400 ft.) where we will sleep.
Day 10
Today we will drop off gear and supplies at Camp II (5,882 m/ 19,300 ft). We will return to Camp I for dinner and sleep. The time duration for the climb is 6 to 7 hours.
Day 11
Today is reserved for bad weather or rest.
Day 12
Today expedition members depart Camp I bound for Camp II where we will spend the evening.
Day 13
If the conditions on the Polish Glacier are good (not too icy and objective hazards are stable), the senior guide will test the clients for readiness; self arrest, ability to climb with speed and agility up snow and ice, comfortably knowledge of a running belay system, knowledge of anchors, and basic crevass rescue. If the Senior Guide feels some members are not ready to climb the technical routes, the group will be divide into two separate teams for summit day. Those skilled to climb the Polish Glacier technical routes will go with the Senior Guide and one Assistant Guide. Those who are not ready for the challenges that the technical routes hold, can summit via the Polish Traverse (aka Falsa De Polacos) route with an Assistant Guide.
Day 14
Summit Day! We will attempt the summit after waking at pre-dawn hours. Be prepared for a challenging yet inspirational day. If weather, snow/ice conditions, and objective hazards are deemed safe, we will ascend the Polish Glacier via the Polish Glacier Normal Route or the Polish Glacier Direct Route. If conditions on the Polish Glacier Route are considered unsafe but weather is good we will ascend via the Polish Glacier Traverse (aka Falso De Polacos).Time duration for the Polish Traverse is 12 to 14 hours and for the Polish Direct and Polish Normal Route is 14-16 hours. If we ascend via the Polish Traverse we will meet up with Aconcagua's Normal Route approximately two hours into the climb. We will descend to Camp II for sleep.
Day 15
Reserved for summit (in case of bad weather the previous day).
Day 16
Reserved for summit (in case of bad weather the previous day).
Day 17
Traverse and descend to Plaza De Mulas (4270 m/14,009 ft), the base camp for the Normal Route. We will have a porter to help with group gear (tents, stoves, cooking utensils, extra food, etc.). To descend it will take approx. 5-6 hours.
Day 18
Rest day at Plaza De Mulas.
Day 19
After breakfast, we will descend the Horcones Valley. All gear will be carried down by mules (the limit is 30 kg/ 65 lbs per person). After returning our permits, a van will be waiting for us and we will be taken to Usapallata for sleep and dinner. Duration of hike is 8-10 hours.
Day 20
Drive to Mendoza (2 hrs.). Transport to a hotel in Mendoza and/or transport to airport in Mendoza. We will have a dinner celebration at the restaurant Don Marios in Mendoza. If flying out the same day, please reserve an evening flight for your departure to allow adequate time at the airport. We recommend flying out of Mendoza the following day.
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Services Included in the Cerro Aconcagua via the Polish Glacier (Technical Route) with Descent via the Normal Route Expedition:
• We specialize in small groups. The maximum number of clients is five plus three guides. Our guide to client ratio is 2:1
• Assistance with obtaining permits to enter the Provincial Aconcagua Park.
• Mountain Guides (bilingual, experienced, and qualified to operate within Provincial Park Aconcagua).
• All guides have complete first aid kits with oximeter and wilderness aid training.
• Transport to and from airport and hotel in Mendoza.
• Transport to and from Mendoza and Penitentes and Aconcagua Provincial Park.
• Two nights accommodation at a four-star hotel in Mendoza City. Double occupancy for scheduled groups. For scheduled groups single occupancy can be offered at an additional price. Breakfast is included but all other meals and drinks not included.
• Two nights accommodation in Penitentes (double or triple occupancy). Single occupancy can be offered at an additional price. Breakfast is included but all other meals and drinks are not included.
• Tents and group gear (stoves, ropes, etc.).
• Cook. All food is provided while we are on the mountain which will be prepared for you by a cook.
• Vegetarian menu, if desired
• Argentine “Asado” (barbeque) at Pampa De Lenas.
• Geologist for the hike into base camp. They will discuss the geological history of Aconcagua and different types of rocks. For groups of five people only.
• Mules to carry the equipment (30 kg/65 lbs pp) in-out Plaza Argentina/Plaza De Mulas
• SAT Phone and VHF Radio for communications between camps and weather reports.
• Exclusive services at base camp; cooks, dining tents, bathrooms, and all meals (6 day maximum)
• Permanent access to hot drinks, tea, coffee, biscuits at base camp.
• Porter for group gear (20 kilos each carry).
Not Included:
• Aconcagua Park Climbing Permit Fee. Please go to the following website for up-to-date Permit Fees: http://www.aconcagua.mendoza.gov.ar
• Plane ticket
• Personal equipment (clothing, boots, sleeping bag, headlamps, etc.) Please go to the following equipment link for more information.
• Rescue Cost
• Costs associated with early descent for non-emergencies:helicopter and/or an additional assistant guide for personal descent, saddle horses to come down from base camp, and transportation to Mendoza.
• Personal expenses (tips, laundry, phone, etc.).
• Extra nights at hotel outside of expedition dates.
• Hotel in the case of an early return to Mendoza. We will pay for the first night only.
• If you would like, we can arrange for personal porters to carry your personal gear at an additional cost.
Level of Climbing Required
For all technical routes excellent physical condition is required. Intermediate to advanced mountaineering skills and glacial-rope travel (such as, knowledge of running belays) are necessary skills. Previous high altitude experience is a super plus. Aside from the glacier, the summit day starts at 5900m. The Altitude is as equally challenging as the glacier. Thus, this is not the route for 'first timers' nor is it the route to “brush up” mountaineering skills.
For The Polish Glacier Direct Route, the range of angulation is between 45 and 60 degrees. All climbers must be comfortable climbing with this exposer and be able to climb from anchor to anchor with relative ease. For the Polish Glacier Normal Route, the range of angulation is between 30-45 degrees. Due to objective hazards such, as cold, wind, and serac fall, speed is imperative on both routes.
Weight plays a huge factor when climbing the Polish Glacier. Without technical gear, backpacks usually range between 46-55 pounds. With technical gear backpacks range from 55-75 lbs. If you feel you are not able to carry these weights but feel you have the skills to climb the route, we highly recommend getting a personal porter for carries to Camp 1, Camp 2, and the descent . Please email us for a list of prices (info@southamericanclimbing.com).
Prior to High Camp, your guide will access each client's mental and physical ability to climb the Glacier. From the moment you get off the plane this assessment begins. At Camp Two the Senior Guide will access how each client is adapting to altitude and the following mountaineering skills; self arrest, ability to climb with speed and agility up snow and ice, comfortably knowledge of a running belay system, knowledge of anchors, and basic crevass rescue. Once the senior guide has assessed each client's skills, The Senior Guide will decide who is ready for the Polish Glacier Direct or the The Polish Glacier Normal Route. If the Senior Guide feels some members are not ready to climb the Polish Glacier Direct nor Polish Glacier Normal Route, the group will be divide into two separate teams for summit day. Those skilled to climb the Polish Glacier's technical routes will go with the Senior Guide and one Assistant Guide. Those who are not ready for the challenges that the technical routes hold, can summit via the Polish Traverse Route (aka Falsa De Polacos) with an Assistant Guide.
If the Polish Glacier is unsafe to climb due to objective hazards, snow/ice conditions, and high winds we will summit The Polish Glacier Traverse (aka Falso De Polacos). The Polish Traverse is non-technical and similar to the Normal Route in its ability. The Polish Traverse is approximately two hours longer than Normal Route on summit day.
If your schedule allows it, we can recommend a list of mountains to climb before attempting the Polish Glacier. Those who acclimate on other mountains tend to feel stronger and more adapted to the high altitude. Feel free to email us for a list of other mountains.
We have a 100 percent safety record on Aconcagua. As guides we feel this record is attributed to making the best judgment calls on the mountain, preparation, organization, small group sizes, and excellent communication skills between guides and clients. Our philosophy is based upon safety being at the top of the pyramid.
Having said all this, the Polish Glacier is an amazingly beautiful and challenging route for those who have developed the skills to climb it and the mind to respect it.
Weather on Aconcagua's Polish Glacier Route:
Aconcagua is most famous for its “Viento Blanco”(white winds). On an average day the wind speeds can range between 15 mph and 35 mph. On a, “feels like a helicopter is permanently landing next to my tent day”, the winds range from 45 mph to 60 mph. Thus, the best four season gear/expedition gear and clothing is required (equipment link). Winds will play a crucial role when ascending the Polish Glacier Direct or The Polish Glacier Normal Route. Your Guide will access the conditions and get the best weather reports via SAT phone.
Aconcagua is known to be a very dry and dusty mountain. Our guides will monitor each client's daily water intake. We recommend at least 4-5 liters or more (especially if you are taking diamox). When the weather is good, it can be quite sunny and the best glacier glasses and sun sceen are a necessity.
As far as temperature is concerned, it can get very cold on Aconcagua and we recommend that you bring the warmest sleeping bag possible. We recommend a bag rated 0 to -10 F. If you tend to sleep cold, bring at least a -10 F down sleeping bag (800 fill). We also recommend the fattest “Pillsbury Dough Boy” down jacket you can buy. It should be at least 800 fill. For more information regarding gear, please go to our (equipment link).
We will receive a 3 and 5 day weather report every other day from base camp via SAT Phone. In general, storms typically last three to four days and then are usually accompanied by three or four days of sun. Winds can remain high even though the weather is good.
Cost of the Expedition
Scheduled Trips (see schedule): All Groups have a maximum of five climbers and 3 guides.
$3950.00 per person
We also offer private expeditions with customizable dates. Contact us to receive an estimate for your personalized expedition.
We can customize your expedition to include less services at lower prices. Please email us and state which services you would like to include and exclude and we will email you a price.
Fill Out a Trip Reservation Form
Contact Information
South American Climbing
P.O. MXY #1
GlennAllen, Alaska 99588
Tel: 866.896.1435
E-Mail
info@southamericanclimbing.com
