South American Climbing: Expeditions

Ameghino Valley/Upper Guanacos Traverse Expedition with Descent via the Normal Route With Porters: 20 days

All of our scheduled groups have no more than 5 clients and 2 guides. Our guide to client ratio is 1:3. As guides, we feel that clients have the best possible chance for the summit when the groups are small and individual needs are met. Small groups create a more enjoyable environment, have less of an ecological impact on the mountain, and allows each client the special attention that is required to reach the summit.

Short Description
All of the routes on the Polish Glacier are technical routes with the exceptions of the Ameghino Valley/Upper Guanacos Traverse and Polish Traverse. The Ameghino Valley/Upper Guanacos Traverse route is less traveled than the normal route of Aconcagua and contains spectacular beauty. This route is the best alternative to the Guanacos Route which was temporarily closed as of December 2006. This route runs parallel to the Polish Traverse. The Upper Guanacos is superior to the Polish Traverse as it is cleaner, more scenic and clients feel and sleep better on it. Also, summitting from Camp 2 on the Polish Traverse is one of the most strenuous non-technical routes for an attempt. When going via Camp 3 Guanacos, you will have an additional camp on the Normal Route and this will allow for a more relaxed, though still challenging summit day. Excellent physical condition is required for this route. We will descend the Normal Route which will allow you to see two different sides and perspectives of the mountain.

Feel free to check out pictures from our previous expeditions

Detailed Itinerary
Season: December – March
Duration: 20 Days
Dates Offered: We offer both fixed dates and customized dates. To see our current schedule, please click on the following link...

Day 1
First and foremost, if your schedule will allow it, we highly recommend flying in two or three days before the expedition begins so you can rest before climbing and get a chance to check out the beautiful city of Mendoza. Climbers who are rested before the climb tend to have the best chance for the summit.The extra days are especially helpful for those who plan on renting equipment. Upon arriving in Mendoza, your guide will personally escort you from the Mendoza International Airport to a hotel in central Mendoza. It is imperative that climbers reserve a ticket with an early morning arrival in Mendoza because we have activities planned later in the day. After arriving at the hotel, climbers will get a chance to rest; or if they need to burn off some unused energy from a 8-16 hour plane ride (depending on stops and layovers), we highly recommend a stroll in the city of Mendoza. In the afternoon, we will meet in the lobby of the hotel. At this time, the climbing team will meet up with the Senior Guides who along with Assistant Guides will go over paperwork, logistics of the climb, safety, and will answer any questions you may have about climbing Aconcagua. After a 45-minute introduction, we will evaluate all personal equipment. If there are any problems with individual equipment, or if more personal equipment needs to be rented, we will make a visit to a rental store in Mendoza. Most outdoor equipment stores in Mendoza are open until 8pm (Mon-Sat). If you plan on renting most of your equipment, please go to the following EQUIPMENT LINK and be sure to read about the precautions that should be taken when renting equipment. After all equipment has been inspected and rented, the rest of the night is free for catching up on sleep, finishing packing, or checking out the Mendoza nightlife.

Day 2
We will meet in the lobby of the hotel at 10:00 am in the morning, and head out to the Aconcagua Permit Office. Unfortunately, it is impossible to receive a permit ahead of time. All permits are issued in Mendoza and it is not possible to apply for a permit via the mail. In the upcoming years it may be possible to obtain a permit over the Internet. For up-to-date permit information and fees please go to the following website: http://www.aconcagua.mendoza.gov.ar. After receiving our permits, we will head out to the Penitentes. The drive is approximately 3 hours and the views are incredible. We will be passing through the heart of the Argentinean Andes and we will stop along the way for lunch. Once in Penitentes we will prepare the loads to be transported by the mules (the limit is 30 kgs/65 lbs) per person. We will have dinner and sleep in Penitentes.

Day 3
We will leave Penitentes at 8:30am and drive to the Vacas Valley trail head. We will hike approximately 12 km (7 miles) to Pampa de Lenas (2700m/8,858 ft) where will have an Argentine “Asado” (barbeque) for dinner. We will sleep at Pampa Del Lenas.

Day 4
After a hearty breakfast, we break camp and head north up the Rio de las Vacas to Casa de Piedra (3,200 m/10,500 ft.). The duration of the hike is five to six hours (13.7 km/ 8.2 mi). Depending on the weather, it may be possible to view Aconcagua from Casa de Piedra. We will sleep at Casa De Piedra.

Day 5
Today expedition members will reach base camp: Plaza Argentina (4,200 m/ 13,780 ft), situated at the base of the Relinchos Glacier. After six hours of strenuous hiking (10 km/6m), we reach the Relinchos Glacier and Plaza Argentina. We will sleep at Plaza Argentina.

Day 6
Reserved for rest, acclimatization and bad weather. This will be a good day for small hikes and getting to know the multi-national climbing scene on Aconcagua. We will sleep at Plaza Argentina.

Day 7
Today we will drop off gear and supplies at Camp I (4,700 m/ 15,400 ft.). We will return to Plaza Argentina for dinner and sleep. The duration of the hike is 4-5 hours.

Day 8
Today is reserved for bad weather or rest.

Day 9
Today expedition members will climb to Camp I (4,700m/ 15,400 ft.) where we will sleep.

Day 10
Today we will drop off gear and supplies at Camp II (5300m 17,500 ft.) We will return to Camp I for dinner and sleep. The time duration for the climb is 6 to 7 hours.

Day 11
Move to Camp II

Day 12
Move to Camp III (5700m/18,696 ft) Guanacos Traverse. Travel Time to Camp 3 Guanacos Route 5-7 hours.

Day 13
Rest Day

Day 14
Move to High Camp Camp Colera (5900m/19,352 ft). We will sleep at Camp Colera. Time Duration is 2 -3 hours.

Day 15
Summit Attempt

Day 16
Summit Attempt

Day 17
Summit Attempt

Day 18
From High Camp Colera: We will descend to Plaza De Mulas (4270 m/14,009 ft). Time duration is 4-5 hours.

Day 19
After breakfast, we will descend the Horcones Valley. All gear will be carried down by mules (the limit is 30 kg/ 65 lbs per person). After returning our permits, a van will be waiting for us and we will be taken to Penitentes for sleep and dinner. Duration of hike is 8-10 hours.

Day 20
Drive to Mendoza (3 hrs.). Transport to a hotel in Mendoza and/or transport to airport in Mendoza. Dinner celebration at the restaurant Don Marios in Mendoza. If flying out the same day, please reserve an evening flight for your departure to allow for adequate time at the airport. We recommend flying out of Mendoza the following day.

Services Included on the Cerro Aconcagua via the Polish Glacier Traverse with Descent via the Normal Route Expedition:
• We specialize in small groups. The maximum number of clients is five plus two guides. Our guide to client ratio is 1:3
• Assistance with obtaining permits to enter the Provincial Aconcagua Park.
• Mountain Guides (bilingual, experienced, and qualified to operate within Provincial Park Aconcagua).
• All guides have complete first aid kits (with oximeter) and wilderness aid training.
• Transport to and from airport and hotel in Mendoza.
• Transport to and from Mendoza and Penitentes and Aconcagua Provincial Park.
• Two nights accommodation at a four-star hotel in Mendoza City. Double occupancy for scheduled groups. For scheduled groups single occupancy can be offered at an additional price. Breakfast is included but all other meals and drinks not included.
• Two nights accommodation in Penitentes (double or triple occupancy). Single occupancy can be offered at an additional price. Breakfast is included but all other meals and drinks are not included.
• Tents and group gear (stoves, ropes, etc.).
• Cook. All food is provided while we are on the mountain which will be prepared for you by a cook.
• Vegetarian menu, if desired
• Argentine “Asado” (barbeque) at Pampa De Lenas.
• Geologist for the hike into base camp. They will discuss the geological history of Aconcagua and different types of rocks. For groups of five people only.
• Mules to carry the equipment (30 kg/65 lbs pp) in-out Plaza Argentina/Plaza De Mulas
• SAT Phone and Radio for communications between camps and weather reports.
• Exclusive services at base camp; cooks, dining tents, bathrooms, and all meals (6 day maximum)
• Permanent access to hot drinks, tea, coffee, biscuits at base camp.
• Porter for group gear (20 kilos each carry).

Not Included
• Aconcagua Park climbing Permit Fee. Please go to the following website for up-to-date Permit Fees: http://www.aconcagua.mendoza.gov.ar
• Plane ticket
• Personal equipment (clothing, boots, sleeping bag headlamps, etc.) Please go to the following (equipment link) for more information.
• Rescue Cost
• Costs associated with early descent for non-emergencies:helicopter and/or an additional assistant guide for personal descent, saddle horses to come down from base camp, and transportation to Mendoza.
• Personal expenses (tips, laundry, phone, etc.).
• Extra nights at hotel outside of expedition dates.
• Hotel in the case of an early return to Mendoza. We will pay for the first night only.
• If you would like, we can arrange for personal porters to carry your personal gear at an additional cost.

Level of Climbing Required
The Polish Glacier Traverse (aka Falso De Polacos)/Guanacos Traverse are non-technical and similar to the Normal Route in its ability. The Polish Glacier Traverse/Guanacos Traverse are less impacted than the Normal Route. The Polish Traverse is approximately two hours longer than the Normal Route on summit day. If taking the Guanacos Traverse the summit day is the same as the Normal Route summit day becasue you will start from the same high camp. Even though the Polish Glacier Traverse/Guanacos Traverse is non- technical it is a difficult route due to its high altitude, winds, extreme temperatures, storms, and dryness. The level of climbing required is that of a person in excellent physical condition and who is an avid hiker. After registering for a trip, we will send you a four month training program that will place you in the best possible condition for the summit. It's also a big plus to be accustomed to sleeping in a tent under harsh conditions. There is a famous saying in mountaineering, “If you can sleep you can climb.” Aconcagua definitely holds this to be true. The best way to adapt to sleeping in a tent and in a sleeping bag is by sleeping outside as much as possible in all kinds of weather. Eventually, through test and trial you will learn which sleeping systems work best for you.

Weather on Aconcagua's Polish Traverse/Guanacos Traverse:
As far as temperature is concerned, it can get very cold on Aconcagua and we recommend that you bring (or rent) the warmest sleeping bag possible. We recommend a bag rated 0 to -10 F. If you tend to sleep cold, bring at least a -10 F down sleeping bag (800 fill). We also recommend the fattest “Pillsbury Dough Boy” down jacket you can buy. It should be at least 800 fill. For more information regarding gear, please go to our equipment page. Aconcagua is most famous for its “Viento Blanco”(white winds). On an average day the wind speeds can range between 15 mph and 35 mph. On a, “feels like a helicopter is permanently landing next to my tent day”, the winds range from 45 mph to 60 mph. Thus, the best four season gear/expedition gear and clothing is required (see equipment page). Aconcagua is known to be a very dry and dusty mountain. Our guides will monitor each clients daily water intake. We recommend at least 4-5 liters or more (especially if you are taking diamox). When the weather is good, it can be quite sunny and the best glacier glasses and sun sceen are a necessity. We will receive a 3 and 5 day weather report every other day from base camp via SAT Phone. In general, storms typically last three to four days and then are usually accompanied by three or four days of sun.

Cost of the Expedition
Scheduled Trips (See current expedition schedule): All Groups have a maximum of five climbers and 2 guides.
$3150 per person

We also offer private expeditions with customizable dates. Contact us to receive an estimate for your personalized expedition.

We can customize your expedition to include less services at lower prices. Please email us and state which service you would like to include and exclude and we will email you a price.

Fill Out a Trip Reservation Form

Contact Information
South American Climbing
P.O. MXY #1
GlennAllen, Alaska 99588
Tel: 866.896.1435

E-Mail
info@southamericanclimbing.com